Day 4 Lunch in Piazza

 
 

The highlight of the day - in my memory - was our lunch in the piazza at SPQR restaurant. It was sunny - but wearing warm jackets was recommendable (of course not if you are from Scandinavia). I ordered Spaghetti alla Pizzitana, my favorite dish here! It's sauce has a bit of a "aglio e olio" with anchovies, chili and breadcrumbs. Yummy!

My coffee came with sugar and a quote: 

The real voyage of discovery consists not in seeking new landscapes, but in having new eyes.
— Marcel Proust

In original French it's:  "Le véritable voyage de découverte ne consiste pas à chercher de nouveaux paysages, mais à avoir de nouveaux yeux."

And I say, after returning from a 'voyage' you will see your home with new eyes as well. These new eyes only last a short moment. Therefore use this moment to see with your new eyes. What I see in Pizzo (always) is the beauty of the sea. Its always changing colours, patterns and shades. And I ask my self if all Pizzitani (especially those who do not travel) are aware of the exceptionate location of their village.

What I also saw in Pizzo, is that Pizzo and Pizzitani had a long, cool and rainy winter. It was about time that the sun came out to cheer the village and its inhabitants up. The promised renovation work in the centro storico are as unfinished as usual. The long patience of Pizzitani seemed to have been stretched for too long. How can you leave a street unpaved in front of your only hotel in town for three years? The Anti-Mafia clause that prohibits the commune to have contracts with companies that cannot prove they have nothing to do with the mafia, can't be the only reason a street and other projects are remaining unfinished for years and years. Running out of money after being sued again and again by bored and unhappy lawyers? Bankruptcy due to lack of payment moral? All quiet common in Calabria. And so frustrating! Maybe we should send them all on a 'voyage' to open up their eyes, and see on return what they do to their motherland.     

 

Day 3 choosing bathrooms and kitchens

 
 

We knew it will be a 'working holiday'. And today, we spent a few hours in a shop to determine sinks and toilets for 2 1/2 bathrooms and 1 guest toilet. The good thing is, we already have experience and like what we chose last time. So we stick with Duravit and its Stack 3 and Vero line.

More difficult are the tiles for the floors and walls. We still like what we chose last time, but thought not to spend too much money on expensive Sicis mosaic tiles ... and find a cheaper solution instead. Also terra cotta tiles are not the best solution for bathroom flooring since they absorb water. (In our guest residence we used old restored terra cotta tiles.) For the balconies we already ordered the same blue tiles as at our main house. However, we knew we will spend more time on the subject the following days.

The two kitchens we would order from the same local company (Alindar), in white and red, same as last time. Even with the same wall tiles (remember my crazy tile mix?). The only challenge we are facing this time, is to build a kitchen around and above the stairways' arch (see photo). I can't picture it yet and we are still waiting for the company's proposal.

In the evening we had a casual and relaxed dinner with friends at the local fish restaurant 'La Lampara'. I ordered TONNO CON CIPOLLA (fresh tuna fish with red onion from Tropea, cottura media - medium cooked) - and it was awesome! I totally can recommend that restaurant in Pizzo. The owner speaks english, reservation is recommended, unfortunately only tables indside, but nice decor.

Day 2 Pizzo - Badolato

Sundays are still Sundays in Italy. Shops are closed, people go to church, families meet for lunch or do a 'passegata' together. So do we.

That Sunday we decided to meet at 11 am at the bar in piazza, Angelo would drive by, we hop in the car and off we go. On my wish list was Badolato - ever since I came across 'bleeding espresso' and Michele's stories about her alternative life in a medieval Calabrian village.

Angelo said, they would know a 'trattoria typica' and - because during their last trip to Badolato not a single table had been available during lunch - he would book a table.

We drove across the Calabrian hinterland and along the coast of Soverato. After about 1 1/2 h drive from Pizzo, we reached Badolato. The medieval village, famous for being abandoned (the village was "on sale" in the 80 ies to attract new residents) is nestled on top of a green hill, out of reach from any conquerors landing on the Ionian Coast.

We drove around a curve, and there it was. A breathtaking sleeping beauty. I think, I had tears in my eyes, so overwhelming is Badolato's appearance and its church Immaculata, a stairways below the village.

We arrived a bit too early for lunch and strolled around the narrow alleys. There have been some significant renovations. Foreigners, sometimes returning younger generations and Italians from other regions have invested here and made this village their home.

We had a nice family lunch at 'Le Botte'. I said to Angelo, it would have not been necessary to book the entire restaurant for us - as we were the only customers on that Sunday after Easter.

It was a beautiful day. And we bought the Badolato guide from Franco, the photographer from Genova who calls Badolato his home for many years. His photos of the 'Settimana Santa' are showing impressive processions in traditional costumes in this medieval setting before and during Easter. This would be definitely a great time of the year to visit this magical village. But when in Calabria, any time is good to stop here for a couple of hours. We learned that Badolato counts 12 churches its own - two more than Pizzo!

On our way back home we had initially thought of stopping in Soverato. But then decided to keep that sea side town for another day.

Day 1 in Pizzo

 
 

Although this year in April we only have one week school holiday to spend in Pizzo, we still came.

Since we initiated a new renovation project - that started slowly due to diverse issues - it was now the time to push it forward: spring. Pizzitani tell me it was one of the coldest winter - yes, there was snow even in Vibo Valentia - and lots of rain. Indeed, it is still chilly here! But I had refused to pack winter clothes in my suitcase. We were travelling to Southern Italy in spring, at least! But don't underestimate April in Calabria. (Sicily is more dry and warmer - yes it's further South too). So, we are wearing the 'onion look': layers of sweaters and jackets. But once the sun is out, it's lovely! However, we are here not for the dolce vita. There is work to do, lots of decision to make. And so we end up spending hours to choose sinks, toilets and tiles!

Ciao! Palazzo Pizzo has a new home!

Our first postcard for our guests in pizzo! 

Our first postcard for our guests in pizzo! 

Dear Readers,

I am exited to write my very first post for my old blog on a new website!

I have moved my blog (after over 8 years!) from Blogger to Squarespace - which allows me not only to continue blogging but also to present other subjects like travel info and our guest residence in a more neat look with better navigation.

The blog RSS feed has not changed. So if you have subscribed already, you should get this post in your email box, I hope. Otherwise stop by sometimes. Like us on Facebook, instagram, pinterest or sign up for a newsletter. I plan just 2 newsletters per year to keep our guest and future visitors up to date with our new project. I haven't been blogging much about it (too many headaches) but it's coming along!

Thank you dear readers, for staying connected with the blog and me over the years, even though I am on the real slow blogging side ;-)

In a few days, I will be in Pizzo - and try out the blogging on the go mobile app. Finally some action on the blog! 

A presto, saluti

Susan