Reading TRAVELLERS CALABRIA

In my hands I am holding the brand new Thomas Cook travellers guide about Calabria, written in English by Lara Dunston and Terry Carter. The photography is by the later. What a team!

And how lucky am I to have won one copy that I found in my mail yesterday ! Just in time before our holiday in Calabria. Thanks to Michelle from Bleeding Espresso, who has organized a lucky draw on her blog after having interviewed Lara for five days in a row. Grazie tutti!

I am so excited to read about Tropea and Pizzo and the restaurants and trips they recommend. I am surprised about some photo selection (by the editor?). The guide does not feature the common postcard motives - which is fantastic! So I had to look twice to recognize the road winding down to Pizzo's waterfront (p.65). Interesting new angles, and a statue at the piazza of Pizzo that I have missed so far (p.64).

But of course, I found already something to nag about :
What has a mafia crime to do in a history sheet of Calabria (p.11, 2007-2008) ?

I deem more interesting that in the past years tourism and real estate business are awakening slowly from a long sleep which is mentioned in the guide.

And as we are "Pizzitani", I need to be fussy about Pizzo's history:
The French general Joachim Murat who was shot at the castle of Pizzo in 1815 was King of Naples and Sicily at that time. He was Napoleon Bonaparte's brother-in-law and on the run after Napoleon's fall (p.11, 65).

By far I do know less about Calabria than Lara and Tery, the guide writers, know by now. However, from the few locations I know that worth a trip, I think Seminara deserves to be mentioned. This little village is a shopping must for ceramic lovers while in Calabria.

And what about the Holy Grail in Badolato ?

Okay, enough nagging. I love that guide book!

Pizzo is no. 2 in Lara's top 10 of highlights in Calabria - right after Tropea! And thanks for the "elegant piazza" in Pizzo, which is slightly exaggerated (p.21). The piazza is not that elegant, however the lively heart of the village.

The introduction to Calabria is pinpointing exactly how I feel about this region, its landscape, people, food and customs. Great writing !

Lara recommends not to travel to Calabria in the month of August (remark: I would underline that! Italy's coasts are far too croweded in August, especially mid-August).

That's all for now. I just started to read. And I will try the restaurants in Pizzo that are mentioned in this new Calabria guide book: Le Castellane, La Lamia and Toscano. From the later I know that they serve great pizza at a cosy corner with great sunset views. (Update summer 2011: Le Castellane is the best restaurant in Pizzo, a bit more pricy though than the others; Toscano has "upgraded" and does not serve Pizza anymore. Try La Ruota and SPQR for great pizze).

CONCLUSION: this is a great comprehensive guide, handy and light, ideal for anyone who spends a long weekend or summer holiday in Calabria. Definately a must have!

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UPDATE : Now available NEW 2nd Edititon:

Calabria through an artist's eye

(click on the photograph to go to the source)

"Sono una fotografa per caso" - she is a photographer by accident, describes Anna Leporati Serrao (before aka pannaphotos) herself at flickr.

I am totally fascinated by her pictures - photos that sometimes look like paintings.

The above picture "gazing at the see" is taken by Anna near the piazza in Pizzo. I screen captured it... I hope this is okay with the artist (click on the photo to go back to the source).

In her photo set "SUD" at flickr you will find some more gems of Calabria's beauty and charme. I marked some of Anna's work as my favorites of flickr.

(source: Anna Leporati Serrao via flickr)

New: Calabria Guide Book

UPDATE: New 2nd Edition available now:

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1st Edition:
Travellers Calabria (Travellers - Thomas Cook)
This English guide book is written by blogger friend Lara Dunston and her husband Terry Carter who also does the photographs.

Book Description (via amazon)
New for 2009, "Travellers Calabria is Ideal" for visitors to Italy's southernmost region, a beguiling fusion of wild mountains, pristine beaches, crystal-clear seas and delightful hill towns. Expert advice guides you straight to the best sights and experiences. Suggested Itineraries and Highlights sections to help you make the most out of your trip. The book features detailed background on people, geography, culture and history; clear and accurate mapping including suggested walks and tours; full colour photography throughout; impartial and dependable sleeping, eating and entertainment listings; and, comprehensive coverage of the region's best, including: Catanzaro, Cosenza, Reggio Calabria, Aspromonte, Scilla and Tropea.
Product Details
Paperback: 192 pages
Publisher: Thomas Cook Publishing; First edition (May 19, 2009)
Language: English
ISBN-10: 1848481403
ISBN-13: 978-1848481404



Lara reflects on her travelling at cool travel guide. While in Calabria last year, researching for the above book, she posted the following:
Calabria: Europe's best value destination
10 Reasons to travel to Calabria - part I
10 Reasons to travel to Calabria - part II

I will make sure to order my copy on time before my summer holiday in Calabria !

Successful fellow blog in Calabria: Bleeding Espresso

'Michelle Fabio, an American writer and attorney leaves the Anthracite Coal Region of Pennsylvania for her family's ancestral village in Calabria, Italy, falls in love, gets two dogs, writes to her heart's content and begins bleeding espresso. No really.'

I can't say it in better words, so I let Michelle introduce herself. She and her blog are located in the small village Badolato in Calabria, just on the other side of Pizzo.


I discovered her blog when she left a comment on mine. Since then I am following her writings with interest. She is a talented writer who has besides writing a broad interest in many things like travel, literature, culture, history, politics, Italy & Calabria, photography AND cooking !

She also writes among others for
About.com as a Guide to Law School,
Guarda! a weekly column for Italy Magazine,
easyJet, the airline's Destination Guide to Lamezia Terme, TomatoCasual.com and Italian Notebook.

The latest news is that her blog Bleeding Espresso entered the final of the acknowledged 2009 bloggies awards in the category 'best european blog' !

Go here and vote for Bleeding Espresso, the blog that promotes Calabria, as 'best European blog' ! (Hurry, until February 2nd only !)


It is now almost a year ago, when I was in Pizzo and phoned Michelle, my Calabrian fellow blogger. We said we will visit each other one day, or we could meet in the middle, in Serra San Bruno.
Michelle, when you win this blog award, you and P are invited for tartuffo ice in Pizzo! (and if not: you are invited the same!)

Daytrip to SCILLA

Our Fiat was leading us up and down the mountains on curvy and narrow streets, on the old national road towards Scilla. This small pittoresque town is located on the Straits of Messina, just before Reggio Calabria, the toe tip of the Italian boot.

After Nicotera, above Palmi, on Monte Sant'Elia we made our first breath taking pitstop. From 600 meters above sea level you have 180 degree sea view with the Calabrian coast line underneath and Sicilly in the South. You can't tell where the sea ends and the sky starts. It feels like flying.

A few kilometers further South we finally reached Scilla.
To find a parking spot at an Italian sea side village in the middle of August is like winning the lottery. Especially because our Italian family has grown to a party of nine in two Fiats.

Having lost and found sight of half of the group and having solved the different priorities, like visiting the old town, having lunch or finding a beach, we visited the town by strolling down one small aley at the Marina to finally jump into the refreshing sea at a small beach near a small church.


It happened that we met a local gentile signore who not only gave us the same hint for the restaurant we got from another amico, but he also gave my son a collection of shells.

The recommended restaurant 'Glauco' was only 50 meters from our little beach and made us all happy. When we climed up the stairs to the restaurant, I was overwhelmed by the terrace 'sul mare' and its beautiful view of Scilla on the left and the coast on the right.


I immediately had to think of the movie 'The big Blue' where Enzo (Jean Reno) had to eat Mama's pasta on a similar terrace.

To top my impression, Dino, the owner of the restaurant, gave my son a few more shells.

I ordered spaghetti Glauco - they come with a sun dried tomato sauce and pine seeds - and had some white wine and was happy for the rest of the day. (photo left: linguine cozze e vongole)


(Maybe I should also mention, that the restaurant was all ours, as it was around 2.30 pm when we arrived from the beach.)

Back home, I realized that I had lost something to Scilla...
The red pants of my son, he jumped in the sea with, that are still drying on a fisherboat.

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RISTORANTE GLAUCO
via Annunziata 95, Chianalea
89058 Scilla (Reggio Calabria)
Tel./Fax +390965 754026

open from February to end of November

Antipasto Misto Mare 8,00 Euro
Spaghetti alla Glauco 12,00 Euro
Linguine Cozze e Vongole 12,00